·:[ Darryl's Coot Building Journal ]:·
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After building new side baffles, front baffles, and rear baffles, the next step was to reinstall the whole thing.

First, here are a few “before” pictures. I took these in July 2007, while evaluating the airplane for purchase. No doubt they were in even rattier shape after an additional 225 hours of operations.

In this photo, notice the multiple patches on the side baffles. Pretty ratty, huh? When I bought the plane, one of my first thoughts was that I needed to build new baffling.

Here is the other side. Notice the beads RTV…

The horizontal bead of RTV was, in fact, the only thing that kept those two pieces of metal connected!

Check out the crack on this front baffle. Also, notice the ugly (dry, cracking) rubber seal along the cylinder.

Most of the top seals were in excellent shape. Not so for those front seals.

Okay…back to the future. The Yankee was in Dave Wheeler’s shop in Arlington getting a cylinder overhauled during the plane’s annual. Dave kindly permitted me to do the re-baffling re-installation myself.

Here is the preliminary installation (notice that one cylinder is missing in these photos):

And here are some photos after the final installation (and after the first test-flight):

Happiness!

Okay…I finished these things months ago, but have not finished writing them up. We previously examined the Yankee re-baffling project with new side baffles and new front baffles.

The two-piece rear baffle was in pretty good shape. Mostly, the cylinder shrouds had been rendered to almost toothless combs:

Following disassembly, cardboard patterns were carefully constructed for each piece:

As with the previous pieces, new blanks were cut from 0.032″ 6061-T6 sheet aluminum.

Here is one piece after putting in the bends. Notice the cylinder shrouds are longer than in the original, that was intentional. I curled the cylinder shrouds over forms made of wood, after hammerforming in the bead:

The other piece was slightly more complex because of multiple bends, requiring more planning in the order in which the bends were made.

The next step was to reassemble everything for riveting:

and actually riveting and reassembling the whole thing together:

The next step…re-install the fresh baffling.

This evening I’m going over Lycoming Service Instruction 1427B in anticipation of breaking in my Lycoming 0235 in the Yankee tomorrow, following the reconditioning of one cylinder. The document describes the engine break-in procedure in great detail, including ground testing the engine with a test club in place of the prop. On page 3 comes the warning:

WARNING: ENGINE TEST CLUBS MUST BE REPLACED WITH APPROVED FLIGHT PROPELLERS BEFORE FLYING AIRCRAFT.

Umm…right. Got it.

As suggested in the previous post, I did end up building new front and rear baffles for my Yankee. Here is the journey for the front baffles.

First, take a look at these dogs:

The first thing to notice is that the rubberized seals are in abominable shape. They are hard and crumbly. But there is more. Notice the big patch on the lower part of the left baffle. At the top of that baffle there is a big ol’ crack (click on the image and it becomes clear). See that bracket on the upper part of the right baffle? that bracket is just about cracked all the way through. Finally, the original steel staples used to hold in the seals have eaten away at the aluminum they contact. Yuck.

Here is the view from the back side:

The crack in the (now right) baffle is plainly visible. The upper seals are clearly very worn.

The first task was to make cardboard patterns from the baffles and cut out new blanks from 0.032″ 6061-T6 sheet aluminum:

The air duct tube on the passenger-side baffle is rolled into the original baffle. Therefore, I simply cut the original out and reused it in the new baffle:

New cylinder baffles were cut and shaped to closely correspond to the original. These were made longer than the original. Upon final fitting, a 45 degree bend will be put in the ends and the front and rear pieces will be safetied together:

And, of course, a new bracket was bent from 0.04″ stock (7075 T6 in this case):

A few bends later:

The next step was to cut out new seal material. I used a product called Cowl Saver™ from McFarlane Aviation:

I used Avex blind rivets with a sandwich of AN-960-6 washers on the aluminum side and AN-960-6L washers on the seal side for holding the seals on. Cherry rivets were used for holding metal parts together:

The next installment will be the rear baffles, followed by photos of the installation.

My Yankee is undergoing its annual, so that seemed like a good time for a new set of owner-made baffles for the plane’s Lycoming O-235 engine.

The two side baffles were in absolutely hideous shape. Take a look:

The rubberized seals are in good shape, but the aluminum is in really, really bad shape. take a look at the other side.

Patch after patch can be seen. See that little chunk below the red silicon stuff? That is, essentially, held together just by that bead.

The factory stock baffling is made from 0.032″ 5052-H34 sheet aluminum. This alloy’s biggest advantage seems to be its low cost. A better (and slightly more expensive) grade for engine baffles is 6061-T6. (This is what AA1/5 guru Ken Blackman uses for building new baffles.)

I had enough 0.032″ 2024-T3 in stock, but that grade, while stronger, is more brittle. The 6061-T6 is recommended over 2024-T3 by folks like (the late) Tony Bengalis for building engine baffling. I ordered a sheet from onlinemetals.com, which happens to be about 20 minutes from my place of employment in Seattle. I picked up the order several hours later.

The first thing was to drill out the rivets for the rubberized seal, and then make patterns out of heavy card stock:

Next, I used rubber cement to paste the pattern on the sheet of aluminum, and did all the center-punching for the holes, and drilled the strain relief holes for some of the bends. Being a cheapskate, I optimized the layout to save aluminum and used a jig saw to separate the two sides:

Next, I cut the basic shape on a band saw (and a bit on the jig saw when I ran out of throat on the band saw). After carefully dressing the entire circumference of each part, I drilled and debured the holes.

Each piece had two 90 degree bends with a generous 1/4″ bend radius. I formed a die on a belt sander from 1/4″ bar stock. I have a lousy 48″ sheet metal brake that could have been pressed into service (and I could have used my monster brake), but it was easier to use clamps on the edge of the bench and a block of wood with a mallet.

Here are the final pieces:

The next task is to rivet the rubber seals back onto the baffles. Here they are all Clecoed up and ready for some pop rivets:

Total construction time: About 6 hours, including to time to make the (reusable) patterns. I have another hour to go for the riveting.

I learned this afternoon that one of my cylinders has low compression and needs to be pulled. Since the rear baffle will have to be removed to pull the cylinder, I may just build a new rear baffle. Stay tuned.

Update: For connecting the seal to the baffle, I used Cherry Rivets (MSP-42) with AN-960-6L washers on the rubber and AN-960-6 on the aluminum side. The final products:

Between us, Russ Milham and I have three engines to rebuild. I have a Franklin 165 (6A4-165-B3) to rebuild for my Coot, Russ has his Continental O300 to rebuild for his Coot, and we jointly own a Lycoming 0320 for our Traveler project that needs rebuilding.

We looked at commercially available engine overhaul stands (example) and found that they cost about $200 for a basic stand, and a little less for a kit. These are probably fine, but we wanted a stand that could be disassembled and stashed away when not in use—shop space is getting scarce! And we wanted a stand that can be used with a variety of prop flange bolt patterns, and had more than two holes for bolting the prop flange to the stand. I agreed to undertake the project.

This post shows the construction of the stand. Rather than providing technical drawings, I’ll explain things with text, measurements, and photos, which should be ample information for others to build a similar stand. Here is what the stand looks like completed:

Bill of materials:

1. One 7″ x 7″ x 0.125″ (11 gauge) mild steel sheet (prop flange plate)
2. Three 3″ x 3″ x 0.125″ (11 gauge) mild steel sheet (foot pads)
3. Three 1.25″ x 1.25″ x 0.25″ x 36″ mild steel angle (legs)
4. Two 0.125″ x 1″ x 72″ rectangle mild steel (cut into cross-braces)
5. One 1.5″ x 2″ x ~6″ block of steel or aluminum (shim fabrication)
6. Twelve 3/8″ x 1″ grade-8 bolt, washer, lock washer, nut set
7. Twelve 5/16″ x 1.25″ grade-8 bolt, washer, lock washer, nut set
8. As required, metal primer and paint

Legs: The legs are constructed as two nested pieces that are bolted together, so that the stand can be disassembled into a relatively compact form. The short leg pieces are about 5.5″ long and the long pieces are about 31″ long. The -3 legs are cut at a 55 degree angle. A single cut is made at 5″ from one end and the cut is toward the long end.

(Another view.)

Here is how I cut the angle using a metal cutting bandsaw. A piece of angle aluminum was put into the vice to hold the angle steel at a 45 degree angle in the saw’s vice.

…and the vice was rotated to 55 degrees:

This one cut, thus, sets the proper angle for the stubby legs (that are welded to the flange plate), and the long legs (that are welded to the foot pads).

Prop flange plate: The prop flange must bolt to the top of the engine stand. This requires machining plate steel, to turn a rectangular plate into a circle (although you could skip this, if you wanted) and machining slots for bolts. I used 1/8″ steel for the flange plate, which works perfectly fine. You can go thicker, but don’t go any thinner.

First a note about prop bolt patterns. There are three commonly-used prop bolt patterns for small aircraft engines. I recommend machining slots that will provide for all three patterns. The standards come from SAE AS127D, #1, #2, and #3. Numbers 1 and 2 are used on Lycoming and Continental engines and are 6-bolt patterns, and #3 is used on Franklin engines and is an 8-bolt pattern. The bolts for all three are 0.375 (3/8″) diameter, and the flange pilot (the central protrusion from the flange) is 2.249″ in diameter for all three patterns.

Here is a sketch of how the plate can be machined:

The face includes a 6-bolt pattern with a circle diameter of 4.375″ for #1 and 4.75″ for #2 patterns. The pattern also incorporates four (of eight) bolts for the #3 (Franklin) pattern, with a bolt circle diameter of 5.25″.

So here is are the holes:

• Two 3/8″ slots from 4.1875″ to 5.4375″ diameter (these are the horizontal slots that are used for all three patterns)
• Two 3/8″ holes at 5.25″ diameter at 90 degrees from the first two slots (two vertically aligned holes that are used for the Franklin prop pattern)
• Four 3/8″ slots from 4.1875″ to 4.9375″ diameter at plus and minus 120 degrees of the first two slots

Note that you can make the slots longer. For example the four slots can go from 4″ to 5″, without problems, but don’t make the holes much bigger that 0.375″ (3/8″). The bushing diameter on the prop flange is 0.623″, and the six or eight bushings are the only contact between the engine and the stand.

Here is the sequence of machining:

First, beginning with a 7″ x 7″ plate, bore a 2.5″ pilot hole in the center of the plate. I held the plate in a four-jaw lathe chuck and located the exact center:

Then a pilot hole was drilled, and a hole of about 1″ was drilled. A 2.25″ pilot was then bored into the plate:

Once the pilot hole is finished, the four-jaw chuck is replaced by a three-jaw chuck to hold the plate by the pilot hole. And the square plate is machined into a round plate:

(I started machining the corners and realized it was going to take awhile. So I switched to a thick cut-off bit and came in from the side. Slow the lathe down near the end to prevent the corners from flying too far.)

The next step is to machine slots and holes into the flange plate:

Tripod Assembly: The next step is to weld the short legs onto the flange plate:

(More views here and here.)

The long legs can then be fitted to the small tripod. The long legs are fitted to the inside of the short legs. I used a belt sander to round the outer angle of the legs slightl where they overlap the short legs. This allows them to nest snugly.

Using clamps to hold the legs in place, move the long legs up and down until the top of the stand is perfectly level. Don’t skimp here!

(Another view here.)

…and drill four 3/8″ bolts to hold the legs together:

Next cut three 3″ squares of 0.125″ steel, and weld them on.

Bracing: Next comes bracing. There are several ways to do this, so feel free to figure out your own way. I chose to add two “layers” of bracing, one near the top and one near the bottom. I cut three pieces of 1″ x 0.125″ rectangle for each. Here they are resting in place:

(Another view here.)

Since the angle of the legs is 90 degrees, but the legs are spread 120 degrees apart, shims are necessary between the bracing and the legs. I chose to saw the shims out of a block of aluminum I had sitting around. Use whatever works for you. Here is a shim being test-fitted.

Slight asymmetries in the angle at which each leg was welded to the prop flange plate necessitated custom shim thicknesses.

Now, use C-clamps to hold the whole thing together and drill holes for the 5/16″ bolts. Here is the entire thing assembled (before trimming of the shims) with 350 pounds of semi-static load (I was bouncing a bit). The stand is rock solid.

The next step was to trim the shims, and stamp a label where everything fits, so it can all be reassembled without difficulty.

Finishing: The last step is painting the stand. The top of the prop flange probably shouldn’t be painted or else you may end up scraping paint off of the prop bushings after a rebuild.

I brushed on RustOleum metal primer (here and here) and then sprayed on a RustOleum enamel textured white.

(Another view here.)

Here is the assembled stand:

Using it: Within a week of finishing the stand, Russ and I had mounted the engine on it and pulled cylinders, pistons, and connecting rods. Splitting the case comes next….

(Another view here.)

[3 hrs] Today I drilled and cut material off of the engine pylon front support piece (814-3).

Damage to the original piece can be seen on the bottom right of this photo. I made the top hole (on the right) slightly smaller to keep a bit more structure in the area.

Notice that the outer perimeter of the second hole from the right looks different? I had to clean up some scratches that resulted when one blade on the double-bladed fly cutter came lose and moved out on the shaft. Doh!

Here is a view of the underside…

[1.5 hrs] After months and months of Coot building inactivity, I finally actually drilled, sawed, and filed today.

The part is the 814-8 pylon doubler. This piece attaches to station 96, and doubles the forward vertical pylon support. The piece that I have from the partial project I purchased is not airworthy—it has a fracture owning to (1) the plane rolling in a road accident (while being trailered) and (2) lack of a stress relief hole at a critical point. You can see the fracture in the large image (click on the photo).

Here is a view from the back-side.

Oh…my new part really is relatively symmetrical. The photo is deceiving because the camera is centered between the old and new parts.

Bending the 1/8″ 2024-T3 aluminum pieces for the engine pylon can be a challenge. Your average Harbor Freight sheet metal brake just isn’t up to the task. I needed a new 814-3 piece and the 814-8 smaller piece as well.

Last July, Russ Milham mentioned to me that Andy Anderson could get them bent at a reasonable price. Indeed, at the Arlington air show last July, Andy seemed happy to do so. I purchased the sheet at Wicks at Arlington (and, as of a month ago, no longer at Arlington), and sent Andy on his way home, thinking I would see him again in July 2008.

Andy was passing through town this week, so he brought the pylon piece and spent the night at our house. Andy also snapped a photo of the bending process for the -8 piece:

Bob Leonard did this work is at his company, Trilet Industries, in Oregon City, OR.

Here are the results:

Note that the longer -3 piece must be bent at greater than 90 degrees to account for the taper of the pylon (front to rear). The -8 piece must fit on the inside of the -3 piece.

The bends were perfect. The -3 piece fits snuggly in the rest of the pylon.

Two of the most difficult parts for a Coot builder to construct at home are the vertical “spars” for the engine pylon. Each is formed from a sheet of 0.125 2024-T3, and bent to a slightly greater than 90 degree angle. Your average sheet metal brake will not make these bends. A big hydraulic press with a radius die can.

My engine pylon is complete except for the front spar and the engine bed, that were both damaged in a trailer roll-over accident that a previous builder had. I’ve built the pieces for a new bed, and need to weld it together when I feel my welding is “aircraft grade.” This composite picture shows the damage to the pylon spar:

A big crack can be seen at the top (left side of photo). A new piece is need, manufactured by bending an 1/8 inch thick piece of 2024T3 to the correct dimensions.

Andy Adams found a shop that can handle this for about $100 (and the sheet of 2024 is about $100). So I bought a sheet at Wicks in Arlington at the air show today. Andy kindly agreed to take it to the machine shop and get it bent. (I suspect I’ll get it back from him when I see him next year at Arlington.)

[4 hours] As part of the loot that Russ Milham and I collected from Fran Neeley, I ended up with this engine cooling fan (drawing 807).

The only problem is that the fan is for a six-bolt prop. My Franklin 165 has an eight-bolt pattern. I’ve been wanting to do something in metal lately, so I built a new 807-1 plate for my engine. I built the -1 plate from 0.10″ 6061 (0.080″ is called for, but the old one was about 0.120″). The circle was cut out roughly and then trued on a lathe. The eight prop bolt holes were reamed for AN-6 prop bolts, but I am not sure if larger holes will be required for the final assembly (leave a comment if you know for sure).

Here is the assembled fan. I still have some finishing work (buffing out scratches, and priming) to do, I will replace the nuts and bolts, and I have a unused set of fan blades that I will probably install at some point. But it sure felt good to reassemble the cooling fan!

Sean Wiens asks the very reasonable question as to whether there are any parts remaining for the Franklin 165. Here is an informative note from a Stinson site (last updated 1/1/04):

(From Joe Dexter) Some parts are becoming difficult to find for
the 150/165 engines, notably pistons and exhaust valves, both of
these items have replacements. I am trying this year to get an
STC for 220 valves in the 150/165 and for a piston manufactured
in Calif. Eventually there will be VERY few parts, I’ll be an
old man by then and will not be able to fly! I replaced the 165
in my airplane with a 220 for the very reason you are concerned
about.

(From Tom Roach) There are shops who continue to provide parts
and overhaul Franklin engines. Call George & Irene Heinly at
(903)626-5122. Other engine rebuilders with some parts are:
Jerry Debs, Grants Pass, Oregon (541)474-2732, Rich Coon
(916)343-7101 Shico, Ca., Rick Hoffman(541)617-0788, Charlie
Hart(315)652-4405. Give these folks a call, I’m sure they can
help. I had my Stinson for 22 yrs and overhauled it twice.
Happy Flying!

(From Larry Westin) The shops below still overhaul the Franklin
engines. While these shops do have parts in some cases they
prefer to keep the parts for their own overhaul business.
Suggest a call can provide specific information. Carl Baker Co.
sells parts only, Rick does not do overhauls any longer.

Li’L Red Aero, Inc.
Don Maxfield
FAA CRS MS2R016L
R.R. 1, Box 120
Municipal Airport
Kearney, Nebraska 68847
(308) 234-1635

Debs Aircraft
Jerry Debs
1348 Brookside Blvd.
Grants Pass, Oregon 97526
(541) 474-2732

Charlie Hart
Winfield Aviation
9074 Henry Clay
Clay, New York 13040
(315) 652-4405

Carl Baker Co.
Rick Hoffman
62980 Boyd Acres Road,
Unit D-2
Bend, Oregon 97701
(541) 617-0788

Coastal Aviation Industries
Connecticut
(203) 748-7303

Charles Sullivan
C&S Engineering
P.O. Box 1112
Bolingbrook, IL 60439
Voice (630) 759-5775
FAX (630) 722-6330

Leggat Aviation Inc.
Toronto Bottonville Airport
Markham, Ontario, CANADA
L3P3J9
(905) 477-7900

Irene Heinley
P.O. Box 482
Country Place Estates
Jewett, Texas 75846
(903) 626-5122

There is an interesting collection of notes on using Franklin engines in Swifts here.

And here are a few notes from this site:
Updated: 1/5/01 by Larry Westin, westin@tdstelme.net:

Larry Westin
233 Pratt Road
Newport, Maine
U.S.A. 04953


Univair Aircraft Holds Type Certificate for Stinson
2500 Himalaya Road 108 aircraft. Has Parts
Aurora, Colorado 80011 Manufacturing Authority for the
(303) 375-8882 Stinson. Source of legitimate
(888) 433-5433 certified parts. Also some
info@univair.com Franklin parts. Thanks to Steve
Splonskowski for Univair's E-Mail.


Li'L Red Aero, Inc. Franklin Engine overhaul and
Don Maxfield parts. Don rebuilt my Franklin
FAA CRS MS2R016L 6A4-165-B3 in March 1995 and I
4975 Airport Rd. am completely satisfied. Don
Kearney, Nebraska 68847 overhauls a large number of
(308) 234-1635 Franklin engines each year. My
thanks to Sam Schell
for updating
L'il Red Aero's street address,
updated 2/2/03.

Debs Aircraft Franklin Engine overhaul and
Jerry Debs parts. A friend with a Stinson
1000 Sunny Glen Way had his engine overhauled,
Sunny Valley, Oregon 97497 reported he does good work.
(541) 474-2732 My Thanks to Scott Barer at
for the
correct address for Debs AC.
Updated 7/23/02, my thanks to
Don Hughes at
for
this update.

FYI Note: Li'l Red Aero (and I believe Jerry Debs) void their
warranty when auto fuel is used. Other suppliers
(notably the fuel tank service who sealed my fuel tanks)
have also indicated NOT to use auto fuel. I have always
used aviation fuel and cannot comment directly about
using auto fuel in the Stinson.

Richard Coon Aviaiton Services Franklin overhauls, repairs,
4181 Wookey Yellow tagged cylinders. Factory
Chico, Calif. authorized service on PZL Franklin
(916) 343-7101 engines. Can supply factory direct
rgcas@inreach.com new engines. My thanks to Richard
Coon for this
info.
Update 3/31/99 - It is reported
that Richard Coon is pursing other
interests. Still has some parts
available, but no longer overhauls
engines.

Charlie Hart Used to work for Franklin, does
Winfield Aviation overhauls, knows his business.
9074 Henry Clay It is reported that Charlie
Clay, New York 13040 does good work.
(315) 652-4405

Carl Baker Co. Large selection of Franklin parts.
Rick Hoffman Rick previously overhauled Franklin
62980 Boyd Acres Road, engines and is very knowledgeable
Unit D-2 about Franklins. All the special
Bend, Oregon 97701 tooling for overhauls was sold to
(541) 617-0788 Don Maxfield of Li'L Red Aero.

Coastal Aviation Industries Overhauls Franklin engines & does
Connecticut cylinders, some Franklin parts.
(203) 748-7303

Charles Sullivan Franklin Engine parts. Charlie
C&S Enginery Co. Sullivan, owner of C&S Enginery, is
500 N. Broadway St. a full time airline employee who
Joliet, IL 60435 also teaches at an A&P mechanic
Voice/FAX (815) 722-6330 school. He visits the shop a
times a week. Other times he can
be reached at home (630) 759-5775.
There is an answering machine,
Please leave a message. Charlie
Does have gasket sets and many
Other parts for the Franklin
150/165. My thanks to Charlie
Sullivan
for sending me this update 1/14/01.

Leggat Aviation Ltd. Franklin Engine parts. My thanks
Toronto Buttonville Airport to Peter Mather
2833 16th Avenue, for
Box 220 Hangar 12 updating the area code. And to
Markham, Ontario, CANADA Kate Leggat for correcting several
L3R 0P8 errors. Updated 7/10/00.
Voice (905) 477-7900
FAX (905) 477-8937
E-mail leggatav@yesic.com
Homepage http://www.leggataviation.com

Susan Prall - Owner Franklin Parts and service. My
A-1 Service thanks to Paul Foster
300 PR 5881-A Jewett, Texas 75846 for this entry. Added 8/12/04.
Phone (903) 626-5115
Fax (903) 626-6658
http://www.franklinparts.com

Reed Cams Regrinds and rebuilds Franklin
Dave Keyton and Lycoming camshafts.
170 Andrew Drive My thanks to Dave Keyton at
Stockbridge, GA 30281-6367 for this
(770) 474-6664 update.

Harrison Engine Services Franklin cylinder repair. Able to
301 Detroit St. chrome 65 HP cylinders. My thanks
Porte, Indiana 46350 to Jeff Friedrichs at
(800) 348-0257
(219) 362-9707 for this information.

Mr. Bedford. Mr. Bedford has available an
Universal Tow All alternator for installation in the
3719 Commercial Way Stinson. Also has an alternator/
Spring Hill, Fl. 34606 vacuum pump combination. Requires
(352) 666-2929 FAA field approval. My thanks to
Robert Skinner
for providing this information.

Bill Snavely From STINPILOT@aol.com - Recovered
115 Heinley Rd. my Stinson N367C and overhauled my
Lake Placid, FL. engine. Does good work and stands
(863) 465-6101 behind his work. My thanks to Bob
Boone at for
updating the area code rev. 64.

Bruce Kown Bruce Kown is retired (35 yrs) from
Classic Aire Lockheed Martin. Although
Cartersville, GA primarily doing STC'ed installs of
Franklin engines in Cessnas, he
770-386-7435 is supporting a lot of Stinson
requests. Overhauls on 180 and 220
Franklins, has factory tooling and
The experience. Added 5/14/00.

Franklin Aircraft Engines, Inc. New Franklin 220HP engine, also
136 Racquette Dr. STC's to install the engines in
Ft. Collins, CO 80524 the Stinson 108-1, 108-2 and 108-3.
Phone: 970-224-4404 My thanks to David C. Rogers,
Fax: 970-493-9266 for
e-mail franklin@ezlink.com this update. Added 6/17/01.
http://www.franklinengines.com

Kim Whiteside Kim has large number of parts
email kdw@uec-electronics.com Available for the Stinson 108 and
Phone 843-552-8682 x205 Franklin engine. Email him for a
List. My Thanks to R Lipinski
, updated
8/30/03.

Greg Lucas Major overhaul on Franklin engines.
221 N. Pecan St. Reported to perform good work.
Pauls Valley, Ok 73075 My thanks to Howie Gretencord at
Phone (405) 268-3925 for this entry.
Added 06/12/05.

Velocity Shoppe Works on Eiseman magnetos. My
724 Britton Rd NE Thanks to Howie Gretencord at
El Reno, Ok. 73035-9520 for this entry.
Phone (405) 422-5900 Added 06/12/05.

Here is a supplier of light-weight starters for the Franklin engines.